Many times as anglers we're so eager to get on the water and start casting that we forget the little things that affect our chances of catching fish.
Below we will cover 5 common mistakes a lot of anglers make that could be costing you bites.
#1 You Are Fishing Too Fast
It is so so easy to do and we've all done it.
Here's our advice... slow things down.
Ever heard the saying "Patience is the key to success"? This could not be more true than for the one holding a fishing pole.
Slowing down your retrieve is one of the easiest ways to increase your success on the water.
When fishing finesse baits, this means letting your Shaky head or Ned rig actually get to the bottom before working the lure. Once on the bottom, keep things slow and give fish time to take your lure.
When fishing cadence lures, such as jerkbaits, actually count out loud to yourself how many seconds you are letting your lure rest in between jerks. There's a good chance what you thought was three seconds in between jerks has really been more like a half a second all this time. This is particularly true during colder weather months when a longer pause can be the key to getting bit.
If you're fishing hard baits such as crankbaits, take into consideration the gear ratio of your reel. A high gear ratio (7:1 or higher) paired with how fast you typically reel may be burning a lure through the water much faster than what is natural to the fish.
Another common mistake with anglers that fish too fast is failing to use bottom contact and contact with cover to their advantage. Bass have a tendency to react to sudden lure contact with objects.
TIP: The next time your lure suddenly comes into contact with something, such as a crankbait skimming the top of a submerged piece of timber, STOP what you're doing and say "One Mississippi" before continuing your retrieve. By doing this, you just created two different moments for a reaction bite to occur - one when stopping your lure after sensing contact and the other when starting your retrieve again.
So, first thing is first, slow things down when presenting your lure.
#2 How You Approach a Fishing Spot
Fishing From the Bank
You’ll find that A LOT of people who bank fish do not take into consideration how easy it is to spook fish. This is one of the most undervalued traits of a good shoreline angler.
How you navigate the shoreline is crucial to catching more fish.
Instead of simply walking the edge of a shoreline with your feet inches from the water consider keeping a distance and identifying characteristics of the fishing area (current, tree cover, vegetation, depth, etc.). Once you’ve gained an understanding of your target area, in a stealthy manner, approach the fishing spot.
Once you’re done fishing that area, instead of simply walking the waters edge, swing out away from the bank again before slowly approaching your next spot. This limits the chances of you spooking any fish and greatly increases your chances for a hook up.
Fishing From a Boat
Here's another thing we've all been guilty of a time or two...
You're cruising down the lake and you see a fishing dock that looks good. You drive right up to it and at the last minute come to a dead stop and shut off the engine. Now you're waiting for the wakes to clear before you can begin fishing. Sound about right?
Bass are sensitive to sound and changes in water movement. You're creating a lot of both when coming to a sudden stop right on top of your next spot.
Instead of throttling down at the very last second within casting distance of your next spot consider shutting off your engine early and trolling the remaining 25 or so yards to avoid spooking fish.
#3 Failing to Develop a Pattern
It's very easy to get into a mindset that because something worked once it must work all the time.
For bass fishing this just simply isn't true.
Take it from the pros who typically fish tournaments that run for multiple days in a row. One thing they always bring up is how the bite changed throughout the day or from one day to the other.
To combat this, it's important to pay attention to what is and isn't working. This means always being aware of external factors that may play a roll in how the fish are moving and feeding (time of day, temperature, wind, water clarity, etc.).
These are all things to take into consideration to help you develop a pattern that mimics what the fish are doing.
Here's an example...
One day the wind might be blowing around 10-15 MPH and a crankbait is catching fish left and right on long, shallow running points. The next week rolls around and you're faced with calm, clear water and not a cloud in the sky.
Perhaps things have settled down and the fish have moved deeper and are hugging deep brush piles or ledges. It may be time to switch to a more subtle, finesse presentation such as a dropshot to entice the fish to bite.
Before having luck on one lure and using it every time you go fishing take into consideration why a certain bait or specific presentation worked and relate it to external factors like mentioned above.
You spot the difference...
"I'm going to throw a crankbait today because I like crankbait fishing"
vs.
"I think I'm going to start with a crankbait. It's early fall and the bass this time of year start following bait fish into the backs of creeks and coves. Also, the water clarity is just a little bit murky, and this secondary point has a lot of submerged cover at the same depth that my crankbait runs at"
Pretty easy to spot the difference, right?
By running through a similar thought process you put yourself in a better position for developing patterns that you can take with you wherever you fish, regardless of the body of water and have more success.
#4 Your Line Choice
Ever fished with someone who was throwing #65 braided line on a clear water lake? Or seen someone using fluorocarbon when throwing a topwater walking lure and then wondering why the lure ain't working properly?
Maybe this was you at some point.
Too many anglers overlook the importance of using the correct line for each application.
From the above examples, #65 braid in clear water probably isn't your best bet due to the fish being able to easily spot your line and ruining your overall presentation. This is the time to switch to a lighter, less visible fluorocarbon option.
When using topwater lures you are best off going with a line that floats (monofilament or braid) as opposed to something that sinks (fluorocarbon) which can affect the overall action of your lure.
If you fish waters that are heavily pressured line selection then becomes even more important.
Thankfully line selection really only boils down to 3 options: Monofilament, Fluorocarbon, and Braid.
Check out the below pointers to understand the pros and cons of each line type to better help you pick out which line you should consider using for your next setup.
*** Monofilament (Mono) ***
Pros
It floats making it great for topwater applications
Cheaper than other line types
Great all-purpose line for beginners
Has more stretch, less chance of line snapping
Cons
Visible to fish
Develops line memory over time
Larger line diameter prevents baits from running as deep as expected
Line quality deteriorates over time from exposure to sunlight
*** Fluorocarbon (Fluoro) ***
Pros
Great for subsurface fishing applications
Virtually invisible underwater
Less stretch than mono = More sensitivity
Works great as a leader option when used with braid
A great option for finicky bass or clear water conditions
Cons
Stiffness leads to a lot of line memory
Not well suited as main line for spinning applications
Most expensive option
*** Braid ***
Pros
No line memory
Thin line diameter allows for longer casts
Great for fishing heavy cover (lily pads, grass mats)
No stretch, maximum sensitivity
Great main line option for spinning setups when using a mono/fluoro leader
Cons
Visible to fish
Can be expensive
Some knots will slip when tied using braid
#5 Too Cautious When Fishing Cover
Do you ever find yourself afraid to throw too close to a piece of cover for fear of getting hung up?
Of course no one wants to break off and have to re-tie but this mindset could be costing you bites as well.
More times then not a bass won't leave a cozy piece of cover to chase a lure 5-10 feet away from them. When fish are hugging tight to cover it's worth assuming that the fish are LITERALLY hugging the cover.
These are times to really have confidence in your tackle and go after those fish.
If you're fishing a weedless soft plastic be sure to check that the hook is slightly embedded into the plastic after each retrieve.
Small observances like this is usually the difference between successfully pulling your lure through a piece of cover and getting bit versus getting hung up at the start of your retrieve.
If you're still worried about losing a lure consider picking up a lure retriever. Lure retrievers pretty much pay for themselves after recovering one hefty priced lure, such as jerkbaits and crankbaits.
TIP: Got an old baitcaster laying around? Tie your lure retriever to the spool of the baitcaster for easier line management when retrieving hung up lures as well as a tangle-free storage option.
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Happy Fishing Y'all!
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